Odyssey approaches the Rip Van Winkle Bridge over the Hudson River.

‘Life is great’ -Sue Graham

We pick up Odyssey’s lengthy trail in April 2004 once again in the Bahamas, bearing in mind the Grahams’ have already been to the Bahamas once before and completed the Great Loop. Click here to move to the latest updates beginning on June 2005 when the Grahams returned to Florida after six months in the Abacos.

April 5, 2004
The Abacos

Hi All,

We are leaving Boat Harbour Marina tomorrow to go to Green Turtle Cay. We will watch the weather from there and hopefully have a crossing back to the states Thursday or Friday. When the weather looks promising we will move to Great Sale Cay and to prepare to cross.

We hate to leave here, although most of our close friends, even my new "buddies" on the sport fishing boats, have already gone. We will be traveling with Bob, Carole & Roxie.
It will be interesting to see how long my opinion of my new "buddies" holds once we get back to the states and the "wakes" start.I guess when we get a good wake I will run downstairs and look in my full freezer and be thankful for all the wonderful fish and forgive the wake. I wonder how many times I can do that?

We have had such a wonderful winter and we enjoyed our "Great Loop" last year and we are wondering how long things can just keep getting better and better. The greatest part of our "Odyssey" is the wonderful friends we continue to make.

This afternoon we had the Mexican Train Domino Championships. I lost by a very narrow margin on my last draw. Oh well, there is always next year. I was thinking too far ahead and wondering how wonderful it would be to say I was the Mexican Domino Champion. Linda from Linda G won. Now, Linda is the one who organized it. Linda organized the Super Bowl football pool and Linda won one of the top prizes. Linda organized the NCAA basketball pool and guess who was second? Yes, Linda, BUT the winner was our guest Keith--yea Keith. So you can see I didn't lose to a loser. No I haven't completely flipped out we are just having a wonderful time. After the game we all celebrated our "last supper" here for this year.

I will let you all know when we are safe and sound in the USA. Say a prayer for a good SMOOTH crossing for us.

Sue & Paul
 

Aug. 3, 2004
Watkins Glen

Hi All,

Gosh, where does time go. I keep thinking I will get to this tomorrow but I guess it is finally tomorrow. I could not believe it has been so long when I checked my last update. Our relaxing summer on the Erie Canal has been anything but - - but I am not complaining I am just explaining how our life just gets better and better.

We had a wonderful trip up the Hudson River and again saw many things we missed the last time. We spent a couple of days at one of our favorite spots on the canal -- Waterford. We ran into several old friends and made some new ones. We were going to go leisurely across the canal but while we were still in Waterford (the beginning of the canal) we had a phone call from grandson John and he said he wanted to come visit. We decided the best place to be over the Fourth of July and have guest was Watkins Glen--so we took off and headed straight for the Glen. On the way we met up with good friends and fellow "Loopers" John & Carol Sloan on Buffalo Wings. We all went to the Glen together. At the Glen it was wonderful to finally catch up with good friends Ted and Terry--Berlie Mae. John, Carol and I hiked the Glen--yes up and back. It is so beautiful.

The falls at Watkins Glen

Jeff, John and Kris arrived for a wonderful long (but not nearly long enough) weekend. Watkins Glen had a fabulous fireworks display. We all enjoyed taking both the big boat and the dinghy out on Seneca Lake. Jeff & John played polar bears and went swimming--I did get in to my knees. There has been a lot of rain the past month so all the falls were even more spectacular. Jeff, Kris, John, Paul and I did the winery tour. Paul and Kris had a great time. Jeff is not a wine drinker and of course John and I are not old enough to drink. I was not impressed with the snack crackers in the tasting rooms and John and I had difficulty finding an ice cream store but we did find some grape juice and enjoy the ride through the hills. Jeff, Kris, & John left all too soon.

We had another great week with Ted & Terry.

We left Watkins Glen and went to Seneca Falls-another favorite stop of ours- and met my sister Becky and her husband John. We had another fabulous but too short week cruising the canal, going to a wonderful Amish market and doing another winery tour -- where they had better snack crackers.

Odyssey with her distinctive “islands blue” color sits dockside in Waterford, N.Y.

After Becky and John left, we headed for Brewerton where we planned to leave the boat for a week. We just happened on a great "Tribute to Jimmy Buffet" concert in Baldwinsville.

When we got the boat settled in Brewerton we rented a car and headed for West Virginia to see my Mom.

Mom is doing very well, and it helped me to see she is doing well.

We made a side trip to Columbus. We stayed with daughter Janet and had a nice visit with her fiance Ken and his parents. We also did the dentist and eye doctor thing. Paul was glad that I also got my prescription for my keep-me-sane pills (estrogen).

On the way back to New York we had lunch with Jeff and John in Pittsburgh.

Paul did very well considering this is the first time he has left the boat for any length of time. He had only been off one night in the two years--yes it has been two years we have been on the boat.

We are now in Utica, N.Y. We lucked out ending up here on Monday. Utica has what they call Mondays in the summer. We ended up on a free train ride on the Adirondacs sight seeing train. We missed the Farmers etc. Market but did get to hear two different bands--one good one right here by the dock where we are docked. Much better than the one we "lucked" into in Seneca Falls (a hard--very hard to listen to--rock band).

Today is our wedding anniversary. We walked in to Utica and happened to find the runners Hall of Fame. We were able to see pictures, films and memorabilia from our running days.

Tonight we are having dinner at Kitty's Canal View restaurant--where we are docked-- a very nice (free with electric, water & pump out makes it extra nice) dock.

Sorry this is so long but LIFE IS GREAT!!!

Sue & Paul

Aug. 18, 2004
The Hudson River

Hi All,

When l wrote last we were in Utica. We loved Utica so much we ended up staying three days. We found the Long Distance Runners Hall of Fame. We spent several hours touring it and remembering what used to be.

Next we went to Herkimer home of the Herkimer Diamond Mines. We didn't get to go to the mines but we were docked next to Gems Along the Mohawk, a place I could have just about emptied the bank account but of course there is no place to put it. We walked to Ilion, the home of Remington Arms. We toured the museum and gift shop. The factory was closed for vacation and to reopen on Monday (this was Friday) so we stayed until Monday to tour the factory. It was very interesting even for a non-gun lover like me. We walked into Herkimer and I got my Super Walmart fix.

This is one of only 2 guillotine style locks in the world.

Our next stop has to rank as one of my favorites, Little Falls. Little Falls is nestled in the mountains with beautiful steep cliffs and lots of waterfalls, made even more beautiful by the recent rains. We lucked into their Canal Days Festival which started with a chicken barbecue in the park next to where we were docked. They also had a live band with 60s music. Our perfect day ended with a wonderful fireworks display. The fireworks were set off directly across the canal from our dock so we had the "best seat in the house." It is always so neat to tour a town where the towns people are so proud of their town.

After only three days Paul dragged me away to Canajohaurie, another neat little town with another free dock with electric and water. The Library/Museum was having a Women's Artist Art Show. We were there only one day so we didn't get to the park with the "boiling hole" for which the town is named. Canajohaurie is the Indian name for Boiling hole.

Then it was on to Scotia where we again met up with friends from Little Falls, Grey and Joyce Cammack on the boat Krisanne (Note to Boco Run: They had previously had the sail boat Rebecca and were with you at Marsh Harbour Marina). We traveled together on to Waterford another of our favorite stops. The last part of the trip was a little scary because the locks were dumping a lot of water in anticipation of heavy rains compliments of Charley and the debris was very bad. I am sure you could have built several houses with all the debris. Also exiting the locks, in addition to large amounts of debris, there was a very strong current.

The captain did a great job. I rag on him enough I should pay him a compliment once in a while.

We stayed in Waterford three days and have now left the Erie Canal for another year. The Canal is so beautiful and so full of places to go and things to see. We still left a lot undone.

We had a beautiful cruise down the Hudson to Catskill at the base of the Catskill Mountains.

We are planning our time carefully to be through New York City before the Republicans hit there and still be able to travel according to the weather. When we leave New York we have to go out on the Ocean for a little way. We are planning to go to Atlantic City, about 60 miles, so we want a good weather day.

Last Friday began our third year aboard Odyssey and we love it more than ever.

Sue & Paul

Aug. 24, 2004
Haverstraw Bay, New York

Hi all,

Since last I wrote, we spent three days anchored in Haverstraw Bay, New York waiting for a good looking weather window to go through New York City. Paul was watching his weather WX closely and monitoring several bad storms. We missed several but two really bad ones skirted us close enough for us to get some pretty high winds. The first was during the night and the next, and worst, one was mid day. The weather station with the aninomitor on it is not working right now and just as well because I don't think we really wanted to know just how bad it was. It was bad enough that Paul had the engines running to keep the nose into the wind.

To think this was just the outskirts of the storm. I think this is the worst we have ever been in for the sustained time period. It lasted almost an hour. The motorsailer in front of us also kept his engines running. There were five other boats in the anchorage. One small boat tried to leave about the time it really got started and ran right across our anchor line--very scary-- especially since we had just read an article in Passage Maker magazine about a boat catching an anchor line on another boat. The woman ran outside to try to fend off the fast approaching boat and was crushed to death.

Enough bad stuff. We had a beautiful trip the rest of the way down the beautiful Hudson River. This part of the Hudson has steep canyon type walls and beautiful BIG homes all along it.

Lady Liberty

As we approached New York City, we were already hearing about the security in place for the Republican Convention. We avoided all those areas. The Statue of Liberty still has not failed to give me such a neat feeling. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon and Liberty Island and Ellis Island were packed with tourist. The treat came later at our anchorage in Sandy Hook just off New York Harbour. The view of the Verrazano Narrows Bridge all lite up with the New York skyline in the back ground was SPECTACULAR. Then to top it all off, there was a nice fireworks display right over New York City. I don't know what the reason was for the fireworks but I certainly enjoyed them.

We left Sandy Hook on a beautiful day and the ocean was a very pleasant trip except we should have stuck to our original plan to stop in Barnegat Bay. As we approached Atlantic City, the wind and waves really picked up and the last hour of the trip was unpleasant (I am being kind to Mother Nature). Just let me say between the storm in Haverstraw Bay and the winds and waves at Atlantic City, The Captain had an opportunity to show how great his boat handling skills have improved over the last 2 years.

All was not lost because we were greatly rewarded with again another spectacular evening view, this time it was Atlantic City. We had a great view of all the big casinos and I especially enjoyed the continuos light show on the side of Bojangles. I am not at all interested in throwing away any money in the casinos, I am sure they would never go bankrupt on me--I think it would be vice versa, but I do enjoy seeing the wonderful sights.

We are now underway to Cape May, NJ. We will watch the weather for a good window to go up Delaware Bay, stop at Chesapeake City and then on down the Chesapeake Bay to Solomons Island, Maryland, where we plan to spend a week or so.

All for now.

Sue & Paul

Sept. 7, 2004
Solomons Island, Maryland

Hi All,

We have been in Solomons Maryland for a little over a week. Since last I wrote, we from Atlantic City to Cape May, New Jersey. Then up Delaware Bay across the C & D (Chesapeake & Delaware) Canal and then down the Chesapeake. We made a wonderful stop in Annapolis. We have been in Annapolis several times and enjoy it more each time. We tie up to the Navy Moorings (free) in a very nice, well protected cove then take the dinghy "to town". Annapolis has so much to see and do--maybe after a few more trips we will make a dent in the things to see & do. We ran into a friend that we had met 2 years ago, Pam Loving. Then she & John cruised on down to Solomons and we got to see their boat and spend a little time with them.

Our weather has been great to us and we have just been sitting here watching Frances.

For those of you who visited us last year in Marsh Harbour, did you recognize the weather station broadcast from Marsh Harbour? It was from Boat Harbour, the marina we stayed in.

We finally got some word today on 2 boats that stayed in Boat Harbour. They are fine. From what we can find out the damage was mainly beach erosion and many trees down. One government building lost the roof. We have not heard anything on the Marina alone. We also got the bad news that another boat, sailboat Leonore, was destroyed in Ft. Pierce. The boat was being stored out of the water but still got it.

What is left of the rain is supposed to be in our area tomorrow. We are now watching Ivan. We are not too eager to head south while hurricanes are so busy.

We have always enjoyed Solomons and it is another place with so much to see and do.

Spirit Chaser, the boat we have been traveling with, "Frances" and Steve are here also and we have been doing a lot together.

We had a wonderful treat for the holiday, daughter Janet & Fiance' Ken and Ken's brother Bob, came for an all too short visit. It was great to see them.

I have been trying to help deplete the supply of wonderful crab cakes. It is very important to insure the jobs of the crabbers. I hope they appreciate all my efforts.

Until next time, still cruising and loving it.

Sue & Paul

Odyssey in the Dismal Swamp Canal

Sept. 26, 2004
Chesapeake Bay, Dismal Swamp Canal

Hi All,

We have had several emails and phone calls (thanks everyone) about where we are. We are "hiding" or trying to, from all the hurricanes. We stopped in Great Bridge, Virginia about 10 miles from here, to wait for Frances. Before we got out of there Jeanne showed up. We moved to what Paul thinks is a better spot at the beginning of the Dismal Swamp.

The Dismal Swamp is a beautiful place. We are docked next to a Mexican restaurant. Across the street is a Food Lion grocery store, a hardware store, an auto parts store, a sub shop, a dollar store, a Chinese restaurant, a Hardees and a few other little shops. There is a brand new Eckards Drug about a block across the bridge. I found a great place to run and have been running every day.

Wolf Trap Light, Chesapeake Bay

Some local people came by to see the boat (the ever on display boat). Then they came back by yesterday and invited us to a dinner party last night. We had a great time. 2 of the guys there had been local lock/dock tenders. They gave us a lot of good info. but more important had some hilarious stories.

Paul did not want to make water here because the water is full of tannic acid--supposedly very pure because the tannic acid kills the germs, BUT it is very brown and Paul was afraid it would stain the water maker membrane. Soooo, he went to the Mexican restaurant, for the second time (would he go to the Chinese with me? No way! I am supposed to go to the Mexican with him--no way). He talked to the manager and the they let us hook up a hose and fill the water tank. So we are snug as a bug. I am getting caught up on laundry.

The current score on the domino game has me way out in front--yes!! Paul is still thinking about doing some "projects". I think that is supposed to be the first step.

We have the weather station on TV all day, Paul keeps watching the WxWeather on the computer and I check the Internet every evening. I think we are getting "Hurricane Brain Wash" or more like wipe out.

Anyhow, right now we are safe and sound. It looks like the earliest we can leave here will be Wednesday or Thursday. I feel like we are growing roots here in Virginia.

That's all for now.

S & P

The author poses before the Cape Hatteras light.

Oct 9, 2004
North Carolina

Gosh, I don't know where time goes. When I checked to see the last update I couldn't believe I had gone so long. The last you heard from us we were "holed" up in The Dismal Swamp to wait out hurricane Jeanne.

Earlier this year we were disappointed we were not doing another GREAT Loop, now we are glad we are not going down the river systems to Mobile, Alabama.. Our thoughts and prayers are with all those people.

We had a nice week at Deep Creek, Vjrginia at the north end of the Dismal Swamp. The Dismal Swamp is on an "endangered list". Our government at work cutting the budget. I think there is a list of "good things" and everytime they want to show how they are cutting the budget ---there goes another good thing then if they save it they did a wonderful thing. Maybe I should be a politician I have it all down pat.

We made a stop at beautiful Elizabeth City and "Rose Buddy" 90-year-young Fred Fearing. Fred hosted his usual wine-and-cheese party for all the boaters.

We had a great crossing on Albemarle Sound then into Alligator Marina where our friend Wanda and Morris rolled out the red carpet. Wanda and I did the shopping thing on the The Outer Banks then Paul and I took their van and I FINALLY got to see Cape Hatteras. I finally got past all Paul's reasons why we can't go this time. The lighthouse was wonderful. We got to climb to the top and I enjoyed every minute. I only took about 50 pictures. Don't worry I won't try to send them all but my arm is sore from stretching to pat myself on the back for the good job I did. They also had an interesting museum. We stopped by Bodie Lighthouse on the way back. We found a Home Depot with a Walmart next door so Paul and I

Miracles III heads south in a choppy Albermarle Sound, as the N37 Esmeralda heads northward en route to the Annapolis boat show, where it wowed the crowd.

were both happy.We made our first and not to be our last stop at Dowry Creek Marina--nice people and a nice marina. Connie and I took advantage of the courtesy van and went off shopping. ( We had better hurry up and get to the Bahamas where supposedly my shelling equates to shopping).

Paul Murgo (Miracles III). had to make a quick trip back to Rhode Island for a day so we went to New Bern and another new and wonderful adventure. New Bern is 23 miles off the intracoastal, and Paul always says too far but not this time. Our three-day stop gave Mom Graham and opportunity to come visit. We always enjoy our visits with her because she always has such a positive attitude and at 82 is such an inspiration. Mom, Connie & I tried to do justice to shopping in New Bern and I think we succeeded. We also luck into the towns local Mum Festival. Mom bought me a beautiful Mum that I have to say looks great on the boat. Poor Paul had high hopes I would pitch my pepper turned tomato plant that looks very straggly but no luck. It is "my garden". It does have a tomato on it. It is smaller than a golf ball but it is a tomato. I don't eat tomatoes because they give me cold sores but as I said it is my garden.

Paul and Connie Murgo aboard Miracles III.

Connie Murgo and I did the Farmer's Market this morning and now we are under way again heading toward Beaufort, North Carolina.

We are now in a beautiful anchorage with dolphins all around. Paul Murgo said he thought he was in a sea aquarium.

All for now.

S & P

Oct 17, 2004
South Carolina

Hi All,

The last time I wrote we were in a beautiful anchorage. We enjoy the intracoastal waterway. This is such a beautiful part of the waterway. We came past Morehead City on a weekend and have never seen so many (several hundred) boats fishing right in the middle of the channel. Some places it looked like the little space they "left" for us to pass through was not as wide as our boat.

We stopped at another one of my favorites, Barefoot Landing in Myrtle Beach. Paul calls it the most expensive free dock. I tried very hard--I think I was pretty successful--to do justice to all the neat shops.

We stopped in Charleston, South Carolina but just for an overnight. We met up with Iris and Jim Barkley, Great Harbour 47. Paul had spent some time with them in Green Cove Springs while I was in Ft Myers with my mother. They are on their way south also. They may go to the Bahamas with us.

We are currently in Beaufort, South Carolina. We are staying at Ladies Island Marina where our friends Joe and Candie are the dockmasters. Paul, Paul and Connie Murgo and I went for a "short" ( right) walk and stopped at a very nice grocery to pick up a "few" (right) things. We had not taken the backpack because we were not going to get anything (right again). We struggled back to the boat with all our packages. Then we went into downtown Beaufort. We had lunch at Kathleen's, a neat little restaurant on the waterfront, got to do a little shopping and then we actually got Paul on a carriage tour that we ALL enjoyed very much. Tomorrow Joe and Candie are taking us to tour Paris Island

Stay tuned

Paul & Sue

WOW what a dolphin show. Paul said tons and I am sure he was right. After watching for about 15 minutes I decided they were going to stay so I got the camera. I took 45 pictures here are a few of the best. (I also got many "good" ones of our anchor and the water)

Oct 24, 2004
Georgia (Bless the wonderful storage on our Great Harbour)

Hi All,

My learning curve continues. Port Royal Military Base was not something I would not have put very high on my list (you know that list that the more I do the longer it gets) of things to do but I would surely have missed something. We spent a morning there and it was not nearly enough time. There is so much history in Beaufort and the museum at Port Royal just helped bring things a little more in perspective. I thought I had not inherited my Mother's love of history but I guess I did after all. We had lunch at a very nice restaurant on the base.

Our next stop was Hilton Head to visit friends, formerly Columbusites Jim and Suzanne Furlong. Windmill Harbour is the only marina we have visited where you enter through a lock. I did get up at 5:30 a.m., yes that's right, me at 5:30 a.m. and on my own, to see the predicted heavy meteor show but the lights in the marina were too bright to see much.

After Hilton Head we are back to anchoring. Our stop in Kilkenny Creek was so beautiful. The stars were

Odyssey and Miracles III at Ladies Isle in Beaufort. (Note the mums.)

magnificent. I am sorry we were not here last night but once again I did get up during the night to view some of the meteor shower although there were not many.

The next night we anchored in our another favorite anchorage, Broghton Island. We have anchored here on almost every trip. I was a little disappointed we did not see any alligators. We always have before. We did see a wild boar and what I think was probably a wild horse. We will see more wild horses on Cumberland Island--another favorite anchorage. We have seen several bald eagles, deer and many kinds of birds. We are also back in dolphin country where we see dozens every day. I never get tired of seeing and loving the dolphins.

Brunswick, Georgia is where we are parting company with Miracles III. Paul & Connie have been wonderful traveling companions and we will truly miss them. They are leaving the boat in Brunswick for the winter. They have a condo in Melbourne that need some major attention since the two hurricanes visited.

We are headed to Florida. We will stop at another favorite, Jacksonville Landing where we usually dock in front of Hooters--Paul always enjoys that.

I will probably not have another Odyssey update for a while because the next two weeks will be very hectic. We are going to Green Cove Springs to have a few things done to the boat, I am flying back to Ohio to visit daughter Janet and Fiance Ken, Mom in West Virginia and Son Jeff, wife Kris and grandson John in Pennsylvania. When I get back I will do our major stocking for the Bahamas. I plan on using my flight time to make my "major" list. We are planning to stay six months. Bless the wonderful storage on our Great Harbour. It is always interesting to see how much our waterline drops.

Sue & Paul

Nov. 18, 2004
Waiting for weather at North Lake Worth, Florida

Hi All,

I hope this is the last Odyssey update from the U.S. We are looking at good crossing windows starting tomorrow night and lasting several days. We are currently in an anchorage in North Lake Worth and will probably move to the south anchorage tomorrow night to be "ready to roll" when we--no Paul feels the weather is right. I go on the Internet every night and print out the forecast. We are listening to the weather station on the VHF, Paul is checking the WX Works, and we are talking with other boaters.

We spent a week at Vero Beach on a mooring. The weather forecast was for possible gale force winds so we just stayed put. Staying put turned out to be fun. We were close enough that Paul and Connie Murgo came down from Melbourne twice--that sure did help with our "withdrawal symptoms" that we have since they left there boat in Brunswick, Georgia.

Also Fred and Linda, friends on Linda G were at the marina. We got in one (bad I shouldn't even mention it) game of Dominos but we did have fun. We went shopping together and had a couple of lunches "out". The biggy was when good friends Bob, Carole and Roxie from Boca Run came by. They are traveling in a motorhome this winter. Talk about withdrawal: We have not been to the Bahamas without them and we will really miss them.

Well, we have provisioned enough to drop the waterline considerably. Tomorrow we will do what I hope is our last last (not a typo) provision. We provision then use some "stuff" then we get twice as much"stuff" to replace the "stuff" we used. You must open the freezer VERY carefully. It has a strange resemblance to Fibber Magees closet but thank goodness for the vacuum sealer. ( Terry, are you finally using yours? remember I did keep my end of the bargain). The guest bathroom shower stall is filled to the top. I don't have to worry about anything falling because it is so full there is no place for it to go.

I finished my Christmas cards tonight. I am going to mail them tomorrow. Boy will that be a shock to some people who are used to getting mine right around Christmas? Maybe the day before, maybe the day after. I put Happy Holidays so I hope they realize that is a Christmas card--even if it is before Thanksgiving.

Thanksgiving--another story. I am not sure what we will be doing, but I just hope we will be doing it in the Bahamas.

The latest email I received from our friends in the Bahamas is that that are "popping" back very quickly.

It was depressing to see evidence of so much of damage on our trip down the east coast of Florida especially south of Melbourne. Actually we were rafted with a boat in Vero Beach that had been in the hurricane. It was in pretty bad shape. The tow service came every few days and hauled off another damaged boat. I guess they can only handle a few at a time.

We are not planning to go straight to Boat Harbour when we get to the Bahamas so I will not be sending an email very soon. There is so much we have not seen in the northern Abacos that we want to "sightsee" on the way.

Happy Thanksgiving to all and to all a good night!

It’s a sea change when you cross from the Gulfstream to the Bahamas Bank.

 

Nov. 26, 2004
On to the Abacos

Sue & Paul

Hello from the beautiful Bahamas.

We crossed on Friday Nov 19. We had a good crossing--not great but good. It was a little "bumpy" starting off from Lake Worth but the farther we got the better it got and by the time we got to the banks on the Bahamas it was flat calm. We crossed with several friends which made it even more comfortable. We saw dolphins in the Gulf Stream in middle of the ocean. We had never had that before. We saw a number of flying fish which always fascinates us. We neared the Bahamas the water turned such a beautiful deep blue. When we reached

Dolphins in jello, or so it seems in the Bahamas..

"The Banks" the water is a beautiful teal and only averages about 15 feet deep. We had a number of dolphins. The big difference here is you can see the dolphins when they are under water. It is such fun to watch them dive.

We anchored at Mangrove Cay. We had a perfect night with no wind and the stars we incredible. The next day we made a leisure trip to Great Sale Cay and had another beautiful anchorage with more incredible stars. We are so happy to be "home".

The weather was so great we spent several days visiting different islands. We went through customs in Green Turtle Cay. This is the first inhabited island we stopped at. We saw several areas that were still being repaired from the hurricanes but not really bad.

We anchored at Manjack Cay and I had my first afternoon of shelling. We took the dinghy to the ocean side of the island. When we got back to the boat our friend Manfred on Seranade was anchored near us.

We had planned to spend several more days island hopping but there is supposed to be a front moving through so we decided to travel with Manfred to Marsh Harbour.

We have our same slip at Boat Harbour. They have done a great job of restoring the marina. There are still a few areas that don't have electric and water but they are working on them. The pool looks as beautiful as ever and the restaurant & gift shop are fine.

We had a wonderful carry in Thanksgiving dinner today with a bunch of our friends at the Tiki Hut.

Paul and I took our first walk downtown Marsh Harbour. Downtown doesn't look too bad just a little bare with only a few flowers and a lot less beautiful palm trees. The harbour is a different story. All the marinas in the harbour were wiped out and only one showed real evidence of returning soon. Most of the restaurants are open or opening soon as are the souvenir shops. The grocery stores are operating as normal.

Many of our Yacht Club members are here and we hear our friends (the sport fishers) from the Carolina Connection will be here next week.

We are planning to go to an open house at and art gallery at Man O War Cay on Saturday.

I am learning, or should I say, trying to learn cross stitch.

I will send pictures separately so the people who cannot get pictures can still get the email

Sue & Paul

March 4, 2005
Stray dogs and Man O’ War

Hi All,

I can't believe it has been so long since I sent an update. Where does time go? Actually we have had a restful winter. We have not had the amount of company we had last year and we also did not travel quite as much.

I could probably teach the pot cakes ( the Abaco Stray dogs)  something about begging. I have become so good at it when I see a sport fishing boat come in. A loaf of

Flowers on Guana Cay; the flowers are coming back very nice since the hurricanes

homemade bread or a plate of cookies really helps.

Paul and Connie Murgo, owners of Great Harbour The Rose, spent a wonderful week with us. They are Italian-Americans, and they just happened to arrive we when were having Italian night at the Tiki Hut.

While they were here we took them and Manfred and Susanna to Man O’ War Cay. We had lunch with Fran, Steve, Jeanie and Roger at the Hibiscus Cafe then went to Roger and Jeanie's house on Dickie's Cay which is right beside Man O’ War. We rented a car, while they were here and went to Treasure Cay and Pete's Pub in Little Harbour.

Janet came for a much too short visit. We were checking out possibilities for her up coming wedding. She & Ken have pretty well decided on Treasurer Cay.  Both Hope Town and Treasurer Cay have a lot to offer for a wedding.

While Janet was here we also went  to the Flea Market at Man O’ War. I set up a table and sold some of the jewelry I have been making. I made about $175. I was really pleased and felt complimented that people liked my jewelry.

Abaco Bureau of Tourism had a "People to People" get together to say welcome to visitors of Abaco. They asked visitors to make a Junkanoo Mask. I did, and I won first place with my mask. 

Nippers, the open-air saloonon Guana Cay, draws its usual happy crowd.

They had food, drinks, dancing, a limbo contest, that I did not enter, and a mini Junkanoo. It was a great time. Everything was free which always makes it better.

 I am finally back in to a pretty good running routine. I really miss my running buddy Carole. By the way Carole, I did the five-mile eastern shore run in less than 45 minutes today. I am getting a little speed back.

I have not really done as much shelling as I would like to. We have had a lot of wind and not all that many "good dinghy days". Paul puts the dinghy up when we are expecting a real windy day and by the time I finally talk him into putting it back down it seems another front with winds is on the way.

 I did another silk painting at Stitch & Bitch. It was much better than the first but I still had better not "give up my day job". It seems the only part of Stitch & Bitch I am really good at is the Bitching-- I guess I have had more experience at it.

If there was a contest for most books read this winter I am sure Paul would win. I did not know he was SUCH a bookworm. A friend gave me the new John Grisham book to read day before yesterday and before I had a chance to start it Paul had it finished.

The annual Barefoot Concert at Nippers is this weekend. We are looking forward to having a wonderful time.

I guess that's about it for now.

Sue & Paul

This baby barracuda rests in the shade. He was nothing compared to his big brother.

March 21, 2005
Adult Easter egg hunt

Hi all,

Let's see where did I leave off—Barefoot Man Concert. The concert was wonderful--wish I could say the same for the trip up. Guana Cay, Nippers location is about 12 miles.  Our Inverter is out of commission, parts on order but this is the Bahamas Mon so who knows when they will arrive. Paul said we could not anchor over night. HE, not ME, turned down several offers to go with other people. HE decided we could take the dinghy. Fine—except we had to go North in 25-30 knot winds from the north.Talk about fun, no that is not my interpretation. I just hid under my rain poncho and held on for dear life. We made it and it WAS worth it. The Yacht Club had a large section reserved and we had about 50 people in our group which made it all the more fun. The trip home, thankfully, was much better. Nipper's is having an Easter Egg hunt this weekend and I want to go but NOT in the dinghy. The ferry does go to Guana Cay.  From what I hear,

Man o’ War beach.

Johnny, Nipper's owner, "hides" a bunch of plastic eggs in the reef in the water in front of Nipper's. No one is allowed in the water until he blows his conch horn.This is NOT for little kids—just us big kids.  

It is the time of year for snowbirds to start heading home—I am not a snow bird or anything related to snow or cold so we are not heading back to the states yet—besides we have our home with us. Our friends on Boundless Grace, a Nordhavn 47, want us to go south with them in April. If Paul gets the Inverter fixed and the water maker checks out we will.

I am running better than I have in years and enjoying it the way I used to. Paul is still reading—his project list is not getting shorter. My silk painting skills are improving. 

We had a send off lunch at Man O’ War  for a few friends,  home one night, then Jib Room for St. Patrick's day party, farewell dinner on O' Henry, dinner on Serenade to welcome Susanna back then tomorrow back to Sarabande for farewell party for Susanna—yes she just got here and she is leaving. Manfred is looking for someone to help him take the boat back to the

Parrots - I have about 60 more pictures if you want to see them

states—anyone interested? Wednesday is South of the Border night at the Tiki Hut then I think we finally get to stay home one night. I may have to walk the docks to find someone to invite to dinner.

We did get to see the parrots again at Man O ‘War. I did not have the camera but really enjoyed watching such a beautiful bird.

Yesterday Paul andf I went to Fowl Cay to go snorkeling. We were about a mile from the mooring balls where we were going to tie the dingy and I saw a BIG barracuda. When we got the boat tied off I told Paul to go ahead to the first coral head and I would go with him to the second one when he came back.  There were several other boats around and people snorkeling. I was enjoying my viewing bucket.

So many different beautiful fish, large sea fans, lots of coral and all of a sudden the BIGGEST barracuda I have even seen stuck his face right under the bottom of my bucket. He just looked up at me as if to say "what's for dinner?" I said NOT ME!!! How I ever kept from falling out the other side of the boat I don't know. He just sat there and stared at me. Finally—Paul

Paul, Manfred and Susanna walking up the street at Man o’ War Cay.

came back to the boat. When he got close I was able to tell him there was a BIG barracuda on the other side of the boat. He decided to have a starring contest with him for a few minutes before he finally got in the boat. Would have served him right if "Berry" had decided to have a "bite" of lunch. Needless to say I did not go snorkeling.   We'll see if I am ready to snorkel this weekend.

Our weather has, finally, been the best of the winter. Mid 80s in the daytime and high 60s at night. The winds have also died down. The marina is filling up with Sport Fishing boats. I think we are the smallest boat here. We have a 65-footer on our right and two 65-footers in front of us. The one guy was telling us his "dinghy," a 33-footer, is over on dock two. I wanted to tell the guy what a dingy is.

  I saw a bumper sticker the other day I loved (yes they have bumper stickers here) It said "who stopped payment on my reality check". I am having my reality check right now, I am working on our income taxes. You should not have to worry about that "stuff" when you retire.

Until next time.
Sue & Paul

May 12, 2005
Back to the USA

Paul Graham demonstrates how a good passage is done.

Hi All,

 Just to let you know we are back in the good old USA. We, reluctantly, crossed over on Monday May 9. We were just 10 days shy of 6 months.

Since last I wrote, we spent 3 wonderful weeks at Man O War. The more time we spend there the more the we love it. I ran everyday and was running quite well. I learned to do okay on the hills.  The island is about 3 miles long and I made a course of 7 miles.

We finally left Man ’O’ War and headed for Baker's Bay to anchor for a few days. That is another favorite of ours. The water across the cut was too rough to take the dinghy to Spoil Cay which has some of the best shelling, but I did get to go shelling in Baker's Bay--not a lot of good shells but I got my "fix".

Our generator developed a problem so we headed to Green Turtle Cay. We went into a Marina there--the Other Shore Club.  Green Turtle is about 3 1/2 miles long so I made an 8-mile course to run. A couple of days the humidity was pretty high, but I still ran.

We just happened to be there for a "BOONDOGGLE" fest. It was being sponsored by a guy from Columbus Ohio who is building a house---Button Wood house-- on Green Turtle. The festivities lasted 3 days but we only got in on the first day because Paul (not me, I try really hard to never miss a party especially with free food)  decided it was time to move on. We heard of a nice long weather window to cross back to the states.

We spent a day at Angel Fish point and then a day at Mangrove Cay. The trip was like ridding through an aquarium. We saw many beautiful fish and I don't think I have ever seen so many beautiful sea biscuits. They looked like they had a beautiful star on top. We saw several large barracudas.

 We were the only boat at Mangrove except for a short period when a sailboat came in for an overnight. Paul cleaned the props and we both did some swimming and just really enjoying the warm beautiful water and not a single barracuda. I am not real fond of barracudas.

Our crossing was one of our best yet. We had next to no winds and very gentle rollers. I have some pictures that I will send next week.

We checked in Customs & Immigration at West Palm Beach. I spent 40 minutes with Verizon getting our service back to regular BUT of course as usual they have really screwed up the billing. I am not sure what to do about Verizon they are getting close to Dell in my book of screw ups.

We went to a Publix grocery store--I got a little carried away and when I get carried away I have a very difficult time carry all my carryings away. Paul & I each had our back packs. We had our large cooler bag and we both had our arms full of bags but we made it back to the dinghy and then safely back to the boat.

We are now on our way up the Intracoastal waterway to Green Cove Spring. We will have some things done to the boat & the generator before we head north.

All for now.

Sue & Paul